Magnets for miniatures when you do not know the size yet
This is a magnetization starter bundle: 110 grade N52 neodymium magnets in 19 sizes, eight drill bits, a large pin vise, two Magnicators V2 polarity tools, and Maxi-Cure super glue. It is for hobbyists who have assembled tabletop models, own a kit with more than one weapon option, and do not want that choice glued forever.
The hard part of magnetizing miniatures is knowing which tiny magnet fits a joint. This assortment lets you measure, pick a size, and keep working without hunting for the right diameter mid-project. Each size ships in its own labeled bag, with the disc magnet bags grouped together and the basing magnet bags in their own bundle.
What's included
Each line below links to the full-size pack of that same component, for when you find the size you keep reaching for. Those are reorder packs, not what is inside this box.
Who this is for, and who should skip it
Buy this if you have never magnetized a miniature and your kit offers alternate weapons or arms, or if you already magnetize and want an N52 magnet assortment instead of ordering one size at a time. It fits Warhammer 40K, Age of Sigmar, Horus Heresy, other tabletop systems, and many 3D printed models.
Skip it if you already know you need one diameter in bulk. If you want a model-specific kit that names every magnet for one miniature, we build those separately.
Why this instead of loose magnets
Loose disc magnets make sense after you know your sizes. On a first project you usually do not. Five of each disc size, plus ten of each flush-fit size, covers a first multi-option kit or a few larger joints while you learn which diameters you use. Reorder a single size in bulk later when one becomes your house standard.
Getting magnets to hold
Scuff the face you plan to glue before the magnet goes in. A smooth plated face gives glue very little to grip, and failing to scuff is the most common reason a magnet works loose months later. Scuff the side that meets the model, not the face that does the holding.
Keep oils out of the joint. Food oil and the oil from your own fingers will both stop glue from grabbing, so handle magnets by the edge or with a tool where you can, and wipe a face that has been handled a lot before you glue it.
CA super glue or epoxy both work. Plastic cement does not bond magnets at all, and a hot glue gun will not hold them either.
N52 is the strongest commercially available grade, and that strength comes with brittleness. These are more brittle than glass. Try not to drop them, and do not let two of them slam together across a gap, because they chip and crack far more easily than weaker grades.
These are not food. Keep them away from children, pets, and anyone who might swallow one. Swallowed magnets can attract each other through intestinal tissue and pinch it, which is a medical emergency.
Size, polarity, and what you still need
There is no single correct size for every joint. Measure the recess you can safely drill, then pick a magnet that fits without forcing the plastic.
Eight drill bits ship here: 1mm, 1.5mm, 2mm, 2.5mm, 3mm, 4mm, 5mm, and 6mm. Measure your magnet and match the bit to its diameter. If you land between sizes, size down and ream to fit.
If two magnets face the wrong way, the part pushes away instead of seating. Use a Magnicator V2 to check each face before glue, dry-fit so the pair attracts, then glue. If a part repels, reverse one magnet before the glue sets hard.
Still outside the box: the miniature, clippers or a knife, and files or sandpaper.
When the box arrives
Start on one joint of a spare weapon or a less expensive model: measure, choose a magnet, drill by hand with the pin vise, scuff the glue face, check polarity, then glue with Maxi-Cure. Finish one successful swap before you chain a whole army.
